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| Module Availability |
| Semester 1 |
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| Assessment Pattern |
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Unit(s) of Assessment
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Weighting Towards Module Mark( %)
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Coursework (problem sheets)
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25%
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Exam (2½ hour unseen paper)
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75%
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Qualifying Condition(s)
An overall aggregate mark of 50% for the module is required to pass the module.
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| Module Overview |
| By the end of the course the students should understand the fundamental properties of water waves, including linear wave theory, shallow water theory, reflection, refraction and diffraction of waves, wave packets, waves and currents, tides, and the basic computer modelling of ocean waves. |
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| Prerequisites/Co-requisites |
| ODEs, Numerical and Computational Methods, Fluids and PDEs |
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| Module Aims |
To introduce the students to modelling and analysis of water waves.
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| Learning Outcomes |
| By the end of the course the students should understand the fundamental properties of water waves, including linear wave theory, shallow water theory, reflection, refraction and diffraction of waves, wave packets, waves and currents, tides, and the basic computer modelling of ocean waves. |
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| Module Content |
The content of the module will include a range of topics on water waves, including
Wave hydrodynamics: Airy wave theory, Stokes wave theory, particle motion and Stokes drift, group velocity, wind and waves, ship waves.
Shallow water waves: shoaling waves, refraction, reflection and diffraction of waves, tides and tidal dynamics, effect of waves on the coastal morphology.
Mathematical methods for water wave models: discrete forms of conservation laws, continuous form of conservation laws, method of characteristics, Fourier methods for periodic waves.
Method of stationary phase. Examples in the theory of wave equations, application to water waves, and the generation of tsunamis. |
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| Methods of Teaching/Learning |
Lectures: 3 hours lecture/tutorial/examples classes per week for 10 weeks.
Assignment(s): Exercises and coursework will be set. |
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| Selected Texts/Journals |
R.S. Johnson (1997) Mathematical Introduction to the Theory of Water Waves,
Cambridge
Univ.
Press. A
M.B. Abbott (1979) Computational Hydraulics, Pitman Publishers:
London
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| Last Updated |
| 26 May 2010 |
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