Spring Semester

Unit(s) of Assessment	Weighting Towards Module Mark( %)
Coursework problem sheets	25%
2.5 hours closed-book examination	75%
Qualifying Condition(s)    A weighted aggregate mark of 50% is required to pass this module.

None

To introduce the students to modelling and analysis of water waves.

By the end of the course the students should understand the fundamental properties of water waves, including linear wave theory, shallow water theory, reflection, refraction and diffraction of waves, wave packets, waves and currents, tides, and the basic computer modelling of ocean waves.

The content of the module will include a range of topics on water waves, including

Wave hydrodynamics:  Airy wave theory, Stokes wave theory, particle motion and Stokes drift, group velocity, wind and waves, ship waves.

Shallow water waves: shoaling waves, refraction, reflection and diffraction of waves, tides and tidal dynamics, effect of waves on the coastal morphology.

Mathematical methods for water wave models: discrete forms of conservation laws, continuous form of conservation laws, method of characteristics, Fourier methods for periodic waves.

Method of stationary phase.  Examples in the theory of wave equations, application to water waves, and the generation of tsunamis.

Lectures: 3 hours lecture/tutorial/examples classes per week for 10 weeks. 
Assignment(s): Exercises and coursework will be set.

B. LeMehaute (1976) An Introduction to Hydrodynamics and Water Waves, Springer-Verlag.  C

R.S. Johnson (1997) Mathematical Introduction to the Theory of Water Waves, Cambridge Univ.   Press. A

M.B. Abbott (1979) Computational Hydraulics, Pitman Publishers: London . C

30 July 2007